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Phnom Penh After
being satiated with crumbling Khmer temples and visions of Lara Croft it was
time to board our plane for a short flight to Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh.
Located at the meeting place of three rivers, the Mekong, Tonle Sap and
Bassac this city of 2 million continues to recover from te nightmare years of
the Khmer Rouge. Once known as the Pearl of Asia there are still remnants of its
French colonial past.
While
there we visited the Royal Palace which thankfully has been restored to much of
its former glory. There are also a number of restaurants along the riverfront
that cater to westerners and upwardly mobile locals. One that I enjoyed for it's
view and Western menu was the Foreign Correspondent's Club which is open to the
public. Sitting at the bar I could imagine working on tomorrow's byline, drink
firmly in hand while the world or that which is borne on the Tonle Sap river
floats silently by.
However my favorite restaurant in Phnom Penh is run by an organization called Friends-International “Mith Samlanh” in Cambodian. Friends-International works with street children in a developmental and sustainable perspective in accordance with the Convention of the Rights of the Child (UN-CRC). The organization runs two main restaurants and the one I prefer is called Romdeng Restaurant and is located at #21 Street 278. It carries food from several provinces in Cambodia. The waiters are all former street kids as I assume are many of the cooks but contrary to what you might think the service and presentation of the food would put many upscale establishments in the United States to shame. The idea is to teach skills adequate to find work in the burgeoning tourist service industry along with a sense of pride and accomplishment.. |
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Killing Fields On
April 17th the Khmer Rouge led by Pol Pot marches into Phnom Penh and
marks the occasion with the date as 'Year Zero'. A ruthless program to
"purify" Cambodian society of capitalism, Western culture, religion and all
foreign influences. His vision for Cambodia is of an isolated and totally
self-sufficient Maoist agrarian state. Foreigners are expelled,
embassies closed, and the currency abolished. Markets, schools, newspapers,
religious practices and private property are outlawed. Within days the capital
is emptied of its inhabitants as the entire population of over two million
people are marched into the countryside at gunpoint.
His April 17th People or New People look to a future of being worked or starved to death, of death by disease or exposure, summary execution for any infringement of camp discipline. These so called infringements punishable by death include not working hard enough, complaining about living conditions, collecting or stealing food for personal consumption, wearing jewelry, engaging in sexual relations, grieving over the loss of relatives or friends and expressing religious sentiments. The killing fields would have a rich harvest.
Only an invasion from Vietnam would end Pol Pot's murderous reign when on the 25th of December 1978 the Vietnamese launched a full-scale military invasion of Cambodia. Pol Pot and the defeated Khmer Rouge would retreat to the country's remote western region and continue to fight the invaders for another 20 years. With the Khmer Rouge resistance crumbling and he himself about to be turned over to the government authorities, Pol Pot dies in the evening of April 15th 1998, his body cremated on a pyre of old car tires beside a village latrine. |
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